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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, situated near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.